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Free Heliostat Plans: Part 2

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Part 1: Introduction
Part 2: Parts List
Part 3: Building the Heliostat Frame
Part 4: Making and Attaching the Nut for the Threaded Rod
Part 5: Coupling the Threaded rod to the Stepper Motors
Part 6: Making and Attaching the Stepper Motor Mounts
Part 7: Mounting the Mirror / You're Done!

Parts List

This parts list represents what I personally used to build my heliostat. You may, of course, opt to change some things. Notice that this page doesn't list the electronics that are needed. The page that does is "Heliostat Electronics / Making it Move".

It's possible that I accidently left something out, but, overall, here is just about everything that is needed.

3 1/2" and 3" Exterior Screws
You might not actually need both types, but this is what I used. The longer 3 1/2" Screws are too long in some places while in others they are required.

A Mirror
I have found that mirrors can generally be found for cheap if you look for them in the right places. Yard sales, flee markets, and thrift stores for example. I've bought mirrors which would probably cost around $75 new for just $5.

This heliostat is designed so that many different mirror sizes can be used, but, if you find an especially large mirror, you may have to make some changes to the design.

6"x6" Lazy Susan
You can find lazy susans on Amazon for around 2$. I am unsure of how long they will last in the weather, but I think they should do fairly well. I have left mine out in the weather for about a month now with no protection, and they seem fine. As a precaution though, I have since sprayed some lithium grease on them. It comes in a can and is sort of like WD-40 only thicker.

I couldn't find the exact type of lazy susan that I bought earlier. I guess they sold out. The one below is slightly more expensive, but it looks exactly the same as what I'm using.

2"x3" Lumber
I used 2"x3" lumber to try and keep the weight down (and because it was on sale), but I think that plain old 2"x4" lumber would be fine as well. I didn't use treated wood and instead decided to just paint it. It is my idea that the paint will keep the wood from warping due to the absorption and evaporation of water.

Two Door Hinges
They have to be sturdy enough to hold the weight of the mirror, and something that holds up in the weather would be ideal.

Exterior Paint
For weather proofing mostly.

2"x8" Lumber
You only need a short piece of scrap about 8" long. Other dimensions will also work.

2"x10" Lumber
You will need about 34" of this.

4"x4" Treated Wood
The heliostat is set on top of this post. I made mine 3' long. It isn't set permanently in the ground with concrete because I plan on moving it at some point. For now, it is just braced with stakes pounded into the ground with a sledge hammer.

If you decide to set your post in concrete, you will need a longer one to get below the frost line.

Two 5/16-18  3' Threaded Rods

A few Nuts to go with the Threaded Rods above.

Four Coupler Nuts for the Threaded Rods above

  Previous Page                                       Next Page

Part 1: Introduction
Part 2: Parts List
Part 3: Building the Heliostat Frame
Part 4: Making and Attaching the Nut for the Threaded Rod
Part 5: Coupling the Threaded rod to the Stepper Motors
Part 6: Making and Attaching the Stepper Motor Mounts
Part 7: Mounting the Mirror / You're Done!

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