Free Heliostat Plans

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Free Heliostat Plans: Part 3

Part 1: Introduction
Part 2: Parts List
Part 3: Building the Heliostat Frame
Part 4: Making and Attaching the Nut for the Threaded Rod
Part 5: Coupling the Threaded rod to the Stepper Motors
Part 6: Making and Attaching the Stepper Motor Mounts
Part 7: Mounting the Mirror / You're Done!

Building the Heliostat Frame

Setting the Post

Here is how I have my post set in the ground. Like I said, this is just a temporary set up until I move the heliostat to its permanent position. It would be better if it was set in concrete, but this will work well enough for now.

Below is the sort of stake that I'm using. It is just cut out of a 2"x4" with a circular saw.

The next two pictures show the finished set up.

Mounting the Lazy Susan

You will need to add a board on top of the post so that you will have something to screw the lazy susan into. What I'm using is a 2"x10" that is 10" long.

Lazy Susan Bearing

The center of this board should line up with the center of the post, and the center of the lazy susan should line up with the center of the board.

Notice in the picture below how there are larger holes for screws on one side of the lazy susan but not the other. Put the side with the larger holes facing upward so that you will be able to screw in the board that goes on top of the lazy susan from underneath.

lazy susan mount

Mounting the "Core" of the Heliostat

On top of the lazy susan, put two pieces of 2"x10" 16 1/2" long. I placed the crowns of these boards so that they faced opposite directions with the hopes that this will help prevent the wood from warping over time.

Core of Heliostat

Notice in the pictures both above and below this text that these two boards are centered lengthwise but not widthwise. In the picture below, you can see how they are made to sit flush with the 2"x8" sitting on top of the post.

Two Boards

Mounting the Altitude Brace

Cut a 2"x3" 17 inches long and screw it in 2 3/4" away from the front end of the two 2"x10" boards. Use the 3 1/2" long screws here to go all the way through the 2"x3".

You will also need to drill a 1/4" hole 15 1/16" away from the end of this board.

This board is centered lengthwise.

The Azimuth Brace Part 1

Cut a 2"x3" 17" long and screw it in 3" down from the top of the post. Also add a brace underneath of this board.

The brace in the picture below is 19" long point to long point and is cut at a 45 degree angle.

Drill a 1/4" hole in the 17" long board 15 1/4" away from the post. This hole doesn't have to go all the way through. 2" deep should be fine.

The Azimuth Brace Part 2

Cut two 2"x3" boards at these lengths. One 4 1/2" long and the other 15" long.

At one end of the 4 1/2" board, drill a 1/4" hole in the center around 3-4 inches deep like you see in the picture below.

Screw the 4 1/2" board into the end of the 15" board like you see in the picture below. Make sure that the hole you just drilled in the 4 1/2" board is facing downward, away from the 15" board.

Screw these two boards onto the "core" of the heliostat. Make the 15" board tight to the altitude brace and 2" away from the end of it.

Building the Mirror Mount

To build the mirror mount, you will need to cut:

Two 2"x3" 31" long
Three 2"x3" 17" long
One 2"x3" 4 1/2" long
Two 1"x6" 17" long

Note: I'm using 1"x6" here because it's what I had on hand when I built my heliostat. This is just to hold the weight of the mirror, and I'm sure other dimension or methods of attaching the mirror will also work.

It's pretty easy to see how everything goes together just by looking at the picture below.

Notice though that the 17" board in the middle has one edge lined up with the center of the two 31" boards.

Also notice that there is a 1/4" hole drilled into the 4 1/2" board 2 1/2" above the top of the mirror mount.

Attaching the Mirror Mount to the "Core" of the Heliostat

The mirror mount is attached to the "core" of the heliostat with two door hinges.

Try and make it so that the pivot point for each door hinge lines up with the center of the mirror mount. In other words, line up the center of the pivot point with the bottom edge of center 17" board.

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